Mont Ventoux: Complete Guide to Cycling the Giant of Provence

Mont Ventoux rises from the Provençal plains like an apparition. At 1,912 meters, this limestone giant isn’t the highest climb in France, but it might be the most feared. Nicknamed “The Giant of Provence” or “The Bald Mountain” for its white, treeless summit, Ventoux has claimed lives (including British cyclist Tom Simpson in 1967) and broken thousands of cyclists’ dreams. Yet it remains an absolute bucket-list must-ride.

What Makes Ventoux Legendary

The Three Faces: Unlike most climbs with one or two approaches, Ventoux has three distinct routes—each offering different challenges and atmosphere.

The Exposure: The final 6km is above treeline, exposed to brutal sun, wind, and weather. This moonscape section defines the Ventoux experience.

The Wind: “Ventoux” derives from the French word for wind (“vent”). Summit winds regularly exceed 90 km/h and have been recorded over 300 km/h. On calm days it’s manageable; on windy days it’s hell.

The History: Tour de France since 1951, Tom Simpson memorial, countless Tour battles—Ventoux carries heavy historical weight.

The Three Routes

Route 1: Bédoin (South) - The Classic

Stats:

• Distance: 21.5 km
• Elevation gain: 1,610m
• Average gradient: 7.5%
• Maximum gradient: 12% (Forest sections)

Character: The most famous and hardest route. Featured most often in the Tour de France.

Profile:

• Km 0-6: Gentle 3-4% through vineyards. Deceptively easy warmup.
• Km 6-16: The forest section. Gradient hits 9-12% with little variation. This is where Ventoux breaks people.
• Km 16-21.5: Above treeline. Gradient eases to 7-8%, but exposure, wind, altitude, and fatigue compound. The final 6km feel endless.

Key Feature: Saint-Estève hairpin (km 16) marks emergence from forest—sudden transition from shade to exposed moonscape is shocking.

Route 2: Sault (East) - The Gentle Giant

Stats:

• Distance: 26 km
• Elevation gain: 1,220m
• Average gradient: 4.7%
• Maximum gradient: 8%

Character: Longest but gentlest. Often considered the “easy” Ventoux.

Profile:

• Km 0-20: Gradual climb through lavender fields and forest. Never exceeds 6-7%, perfect for finding rhythm.
• Km 20-26: The final 6km joins the Bédoin route at Chalet Reynard. Same exposed section but you’re less fatigued reaching it.

Key Feature: Spectacular lavender fields June-July make this the most beautiful route.

Route 3: Malaucène (North) - The Hidden Challenge

Stats:

• Distance: 21 km
• Elevation gain: 1,570m
• Average gradient: 7.5%
• Maximum gradient: 12%

Character: Similar difficulty to Bédoin but quieter, shadier, and often overlooked.

Profile:

• Km 0-2: Brutal opening at 10-12% out of Malaucène village. Immediate shock.
• Km 2-15: Sustained 7-9% through beautiful forest. Shadier and cooler than Bédoin.
• Km 15-21: Emerges onto exposed summit road. Joins other routes for final push.

Key Feature: The opening ramp is vicious—warm up before reaching Malaucène.

Best Route for You

First-timers: Sault—manageable gradient, less intimidating Challenge seekers: Bédoin—the classic, the Tour route, the test Those avoiding crowds: Malaucène—quieter than Bédoin but equally hard Multi-climb day: Climb Bédoin, descend Malaucène or Sault for variety

Best Time to Ride

Season: Rideable year-round except during snow (typically December-March). Summer closures are rare but check conditions.

Optimal Months:

• May-June: Perfect temperatures, lavender blooming (Sault)
• July-August: Hot—start very early (5-6am) to avoid brutal afternoon heat
• September-October: Excellent conditions, fewer crowds

Worst Times:

• Midday July-August: Temperatures on exposed summit exceed 35-40°C (95-104°F). Many riders suffer heat exhaustion.
• Windy days: Check forecast—summit winds >60km/h make cycling dangerous
• Tour de France time: Incredible atmosphere but road closures and crowds

Start Time: If climbing in summer, start by 6-7am. The temperature difference between 7am and 2pm can be 15-20°C.

Practical Strategy

Pacing (Bédoin Route):

• Km 0-6: Easy, conversational pace. Don’t blow up here.
• Km 6-16: Find sustainable rhythm. The forest gives shade but no relief in gradient. Pace conservatively.
• Km 16-21.5: Manage exposure and wind. Mental game intensifies.

Gearing: 34x32 minimum for recreational riders. The sustained 9-11% sections in the forest punish inadequate gearing.

Hydration: Critical. Carry three bottles if possible, or plan to refill at:

• Chalet Reynard (km 16 on Bédoin, km 20 on Sault)
• La Fruitière (km 9 on Sault route)

In summer heat, budget 1-1.5 liters per hour.

Fueling: 21-26km takes 90-150 minutes. Eat before starting, fuel regularly during climb.

Clothing:

• Summer: Lightweight everything, sunscreen, sunglasses
• Summit: Even in summer, wind can make it cold—carry vest
• Winter/Spring: Temperatures vary wildly from base to summit

Sun Protection: Essential. The exposed summit offers zero shade. Sunscreen, sunglasses, and consider arm sleeves.

Tom Simpson Memorial

Km 1.5 from summit on Bédoin route, a stone memorial marks where British cyclist Tom Simpson collapsed and died during the 1967 Tour. Heat, amphetamines, and alcohol contributed to his death.

The site is a pilgrimage point. Riders leave bottles, cycling caps, and notes. Take a moment here—it’s sobering reminder of Ventoux’s danger.

The Summit

Facilities:

• Observatory (not open to public)
• Viewing platform
• Sometimes a van selling drinks (unreliable, don’t count on it)
• Photo opportunities with summit sign

Views: On clear days, spectacular 360° panoramas including Alps, Mediterranean, and Pyrenees.

Wind: Can be brutal. If wind is fierce, take photos quickly and start descending—hypothermia risk is real even in summer.

Weather: Changes rapidly. Fog can roll in within minutes.

Difficulty Rating

Expert to Advanced: Ventoux is genuinely hard. The combination of length, sustained gradient, exposure, and environmental factors makes this one of France’s hardest single climbs.

Comparison:

• Bédoin side is similar difficulty to Tourmalet
• Harder than: Alpe d’Huez (longer, more exposure)
• Easier than: Galibier (less altitude)
• Unique factor: The exposure and weather add difficulty beyond gradient

What to Expect

Physical: The forest section (km 6-16 on Bédoin) is brutal—sustained 10%+ with no relief. Your legs will burn. The exposed section is physically easier but mentally harder as wind, sun, and fatigue accumulate.

Mental: The combination of seeing the summit for kilometers while making slow progress breaks many riders. The white summit seems to recede as you climb.

Environmental: Heat in summer, wind always, sudden weather changes. Ventoux’s difficulty is environmental as much as physical.

Crowds: Bédoin route is busy in summer, especially June-August. You’ll share the road with recreational cyclists, Tour hopefuls, and cycling tourists.

Safety Considerations

Heat: Most dangerous factor. Signs of heat exhaustion:

• Dizziness, confusion
• Stopped sweating despite exertion
• Nausea

If experiencing these, stop, find shade, drink water. Don’t push to summit.

Wind: Summit winds can literally blow cyclists off bikes. If forecast exceeds 60km/h, reconsider.

Weather: Thunderstorms develop rapidly. If you hear thunder, descend immediately—summit is exposed and lightning-prone.

Descent: Technical, steep, and often windy. Stay alert, brake before turns, watch for gravel.

Combining Routes

The Double Ventoux: Climb one route, descend another, immediately climb back up. Popular challenges:

• Cinglé du Mont Ventoux: All three routes in one day (official challenge with certificate)
• Bédoin-Malaucène: Up and down both sides

Same-Day Options: Combine Ventoux with nearby climbs:

• Col de la Madeleine (different from Alpine Madeleine)
• Gorges de la Nesque (spectacular gorge road)

Accommodation and Logistics

Base Towns:

• Bédoin: Classic base, cycling-friendly, good restaurants
• Malaucène: Quieter, charming village
• Sault: Lavender capital, beautiful setting

All three towns have bike shops, cafes, and accommodation. Book ahead in peak season.

Getting There: Fly to Marseille or Nice, drive/bus to Vaucluse region.

Why You Must Climb It

Ventoux is non-negotiable for serious cyclists. The history, the challenge, the three distinct routes, and the sheer iconic status make this essential. Yes, it’s hard. Yes, the conditions can be brutal. But standing at 1,912 meters on that white, windswept summit is a cycling milestone.

When you emerge from the forest onto that lunar landscape with 5km still to go, when the wind pushes you backwards, when every pedal stroke feels like swimming through concrete, remember: you’re experiencing what thousands before you have experienced. Eddy Merckx called it the hardest climb of his career.

Finish, descend to a cafe in Bédoin, order a beer, and join cycling’s brotherhood.

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